The last thing on my mind was culinary gastronomie, though I must admit I was in the mood for something special. One of the locals I met after checking in to my small pension escorted me down the steps of the main street leading to Indio Feliz (Happy Indian) Restaurant and recommended it as the best in town. I made a mental note of stopping by later in the day to check it out, though from the outside it seemed just like another basic place with bland food. After a day roaming the heights of Machu-Picchu with its swirling mists and being awed by its location and mystical grandeur, I returned to Aguas Calientes. The village name means "hot waters" because it sits on an underground hot spring with a pool for relaxing and is also on the banks of the Urubamba River. After a late afternoon dip and a siesta, I was ready to investigate the restaurant. Talk about not judging a book by its cover: this place was amazing! Each of the eight tables downstairs was immaculately set with crisp linens, attractive dinnerware and a vase of lilies, hibiscus and other beautiful flowers. In one corner was a working fireplace - this augured well but the best was yet to come. The proprietor and manager, Patrick Vogin had time for a chat as I was early - most diners are from France and arrive about 8 p.m. or later as this place is featured in the "Guide Routard" of Peru (the French equivalent of Lonely Planet or Footprints Guidebooks). We discovered a Montreal connection - my hometown and where Patrick lived and ran a restaurant in the St. Hubert Street area for some years. A native of Aix-en-Provence, Patrick's restaurant was hit hard by the early-nineties recession here and he found his way to Peru and married a Peruvian lady. Quelle surprise! It really is a small world. Well, back to the topic du jour - the food. Everything I sampled would not be out of place in a fine Paris restaurant - minus the prices and attitude. From the salade mixte, to the poulet au gingembre with perfect veggies and roast potatoes and crème brulee for dessert - the meal was a dream. The fresh bread and red wine from Chile rounded out the experience and Patrick apologized for the absence of French wines due to prohibitive import cost. By the way, every table was taken downstairs as Patrick also caters to groups travelling with the French travel company Nouvelles Frontieres. During the course of my meal, diners arrived without a reservation and had to be turned away. Even though I was at a table for five and told Patrick it would be alright to seat others, with Gallic flair he pronounced: "Mais cher monsieur, c'est votre table!" The full meal with tip and a glass of red wine was about 40 Peruvian soles or $18 Canadian and worth every penny. Though food is never a high priority for me while travelling, this certainly was 'a meal to remember' in the most unlikely of places. I sailed out of Indio Feliz quite feliz indeed and ready to conquer new travel experiences. Reference: Restaurant Bistro Aguas Calientes, Peru.
By Gerald Schwartz, Canada